Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and visitors equally praising its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, UNESCO designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a select group of global cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it becomes part of a worldwide network of cities metropolises across over 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "stands as proof of its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and dynamic culinary scene," as noted by a official from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this venerable city arrives as no surprise to its locals or avid food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, bustling, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is at last in the limelight for what has always characterized its soul: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a constant dialogue from waking up until night in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and taken to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of culinary innovations, blending Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover securely closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates seasonal produce but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on many street corners, there are small establishments and stalls – little-known treasures that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a unpretentious joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and complicated. The cook beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but say that their younger generation do not want to take up the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will encourage more people around the world to explore these narratives and travel to the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
